Suspension is the single biggest factor in how your mountain bike feels. More than tires, more than geometry, more than frame material. Get it right and your bike feels planted, confident, and alive. Get it wrong and no amount of tuning will save you.
The problem is that suspension has become genuinely complicated. In 2026, you have the option to choose between air and coil springs, single and double crown forks, hydraulic and air volume-adjust dampers, and a growing list of brands, each claiming to have mastered the art of suspension. It's a lot.
This guide simplifies the complex landscape of suspension systems. We'll tell you what to focus on, what to ignore, and how to match your suspension to your riding so you can spend less time researching and more time on the trail.
Why Suspension Matters More Than You Think
Most riders upgrading their bike focus on the frame, the drivetrain, or the wheels. Suspension gets overlooked because it's harder to understand and the numbers are less intuitive than "12-speed" or "carbon frame."
But here's the reality: a mid-range bike with well-set-up suspension will outride an expensive bike with suspension that's wrong for the rider. Every time.
Your suspension controls how your wheels follow the ground. When it works well, your tires stay in contact with the trail through roots, rocks, and drops. When it doesn't work, you get bounced around, your braking becomes inconsistent, and your arms tire out on long descents.
Getting your suspension right is the highest return investment you can make in your riding.
Part 1: Understanding Forks
Your MTB fork is the front half of your suspension system. It controls how your front wheel responds to impacts and has a big influence on steering feel and confidence.
Travel: How Much Do You Need?
Travel is the distance your fork can compress. More travel means more capacity to absorb big hits, but it also changes your bike's geometry and adds weight.
Here is a simple guide for riding styles:
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Cross-country and trail: 100mm to 130mm
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Trail and all-mountain: 130mm to 150mm
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Enduro: 150mm to 170mm
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Downhill: 180mm to 200mm
One common mistake is buying too much travel. A 170mm fork on a trail bike raises the front end, slackens the head angle beyond what the frame was designed for, and makes the bike harder to pedal efficiently. Match your travel to your bike's intended use.
Chassis: Single Crown vs Double Crown
Single crown forks are what most riders run. The stanchions meet at one point at the top of the fork. They are lighter and work well for everything up to aggressive enduro riding.
Double crown forks clamp the stanchions both above and below the headset, adding significant stiffness. They are standard for downhill bikes and are overkill for anything else. Unless you are racing DH or sending serious cliffs, you do not need a double crown.
Stanchion Diameter: 34mm, 36mm, or 38mm?
Bigger stanchions mean a stiffer fork. Here is what each size is typically used for:
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34mm: Cross-country and light trail
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36mm: Trail and all-mountain
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38mm: Enduro and aggressive riding
Stiffness matters because a flexy fork wanders under braking and in corners. If you ride technical terrain and corner hard, a 36mm or 38mm chassis will make a noticeable difference.
Damper Technology: What Are You Actually Adjusting?
This area is where most riders get lost. Every fork has two adjustments you need to understand:
Rebound: Controls how fast the fork returns after being compressed. Too fast and the fork kicks back and loses traction. Too slow and it packs down over repeated hits and feels harsh.
Compression: Controls how much resistance the fork has when it compresses. Some forks split the adjustment into high-speed compression (for big hits) and low-speed compression (for rider-input forces like braking and pedalling).
Premium forks like the Fox 36 Factory and RockShox Lyrik Ultimate give you independent high- and low-speed compression adjustment. Entry-level forks simplify this to a single compression dial or a lockout lever. Both work well for most riders. The more adjustable option is only useful if you understand what each knob does.
Part 2: Understanding Rear Shocks
Your rear shock works with your frame's linkage system to control rear wheel movement. Unlike forks, rear shocks do not operate in isolation. The frame's leverage ratio and suspension design shape how the shock behaves as much as the shock itself does.
Air vs Coil: The Short Version
We covered this topic in detail in our air vs. coil guide, but here is the quick summary:
Air shocks are lighter, adjustable with a pump, and work well across most trail riding. They are the right choice for most riders.
Coil shocks are heavier but feel more supple and planted. They perform consistently in cold weather and are preferred by enduro riders and anyone who rides chunky BC terrain regularly.
Eye-to-Eye and Stroke: Getting the Size Right
The eye-to-eye measurement is the most important spec when buying a rear shock. Eye-to-eye is the distance between the two mounting points. Stroke is how far the shock shaft moves.
Your replacement shock must match your frame's specifications exactly. There is no flexibility here. A shock that is even a few millimetres off will either not fit or put your suspension out of the intended travel range.
Find your frame's shock spec in the owner's manual or on the manufacturer's website. If you're unsure, bring your bike into Dunbar Cycles & Corsa Cycles, and we will measure it for you.
Leverage Ratio and Spring Rate
Every frame has a leverage ratio that determines how much the rear wheel moves relative to the shock. A high leverage ratio means the wheel moves more with each millimetre of shock travel. A low leverage ratio means less movement.
Why does this matter? This number is important because it affects the spring rate you need. A frame with a high leverage ratio needs a softer spring. A frame with a low leverage ratio needs a stiffer one.
Most air shocks handle these adjustments through air pressure. Coil shocks require you to buy the right spring rate for your frame and body weight. Getting this wrong is one of the most common mistakes riders make when switching to coil.
Part 3: Setting Up Your Suspension
Buying the right suspension is only half the job. Setting it up correctly is what actually makes your bike ride well.
Start With Sag
Sag is how much your suspension compresses under your body weight alone before you start riding. It is measured as a percentage of total travel.
The general targets are:
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Fork: 15% to 20% of travel
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Rear shock: 25% to 30% of travel
To set sag, put on your riding kit and get on your bike in your normal riding position. Have someone check where the rubber O-ring sits on the stanchion or shock shaft. Adjust your air pressure or spring preload until you hit the target range.
This one step transforms how most bikes feel. It is free, it takes ten minutes, and it is the most impactful thing you can do before spending money on new suspension.
Rebound: Start Slow, Speed Up
Set your rebound fully slow, then gradually speed it up until the fork or shock returns quickly without kicking back. A beneficial test is to push down sharply on the handlebar or seat and watch how the suspension returns. It should come back smoothly and settle without bouncing.
Compression: Leave It Alone at First
Most riders benefit from leaving compression at the manufacturer's recommended starting point and adjusting sag and rebound first. Compression is a fine-tuning tool, not a starting point. Once your sag and rebound feel right, you can experiment with compression in small increments.
Part 4: The Best MTB Suspension Brands in 2026
A handful of brands, through decades of development and real-world racing feedback, dominate the suspension market.
RockShox
RockShox is the largest suspension brand in mountain biking and offers the widest range from entry level to flagship. Their Charger 3 damper (found in the Lyrik and Zeb) is one of the best trail dampers available. The Super Deluxe rear shock is an industry benchmark.
Best for: Riders who want proven performance across every price point.
Fox Racing Suspension
Fox is RockShox's closest rival and has a loyal following among BC riders. The GRIP X2 damper in their factory-level forks and the Float X2 rear shock are particularly popular for enduro and all-mountain riding. Fox also has a strong servicing network across Canada.
Best for: Riders who prioritize feel and tuneability and are willing to pay for it.
Ohlins
The Swedish brand has built a strong reputation in MTB over the last decade. Their TTX coil rear shock is considered one of the finest feeling shocks available at any price. Ohlins suspension is for riders who want the absolute best and are prepared to invest accordingly.
Best for: Riders chasing maximum performance and a truly premium feel.
Marzocchi
Owned by Fox but marketed separately, Marzocchi offers solid performance at accessible price points. The Bomber Z2 is an excellent trail fork for riders who want Fox-quality internals without the factory price tag.
Best for: Riders on a budget who do not want to compromise on quality.
Part 5: What to Prioritise by Riding Style
Still not sure where to start? Here is a simple breakdown by rider type.
The weekend trail rider: Prioritise a quality air fork in the 130mm to 150mm range with a Charger or GRIP damper. A mid-range air shock from RockShox or Fox will serve you well. Focus your budget on the fork. It has more impact on how the bike feels than the rear shock.
The enduro rider: Opt for longer travel and a stiffer chassis. A 160mm to 170mm fork with 36mm or 38mm stanchions. Consider a coil rear shock if you spend most of your time on technical descents. Prioritise damper quality over brand loyalty.
The bike park and DH rider: The bike features maximum travel, a double crown fork for downhill (DH) riding, and a coil rear shock. Weight is not a concern here. Durability and performance under repeated intense use are everything.
The all-rounder: A 140mm to 150mm fork with a quality air shock is the most versatile setup. You can ride everything from XC trails to moderate enduro terrain without feeling like you are on the wrong bike.
What to Check Before You Buy
Before you purchase any suspension, confirm these four things:
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Travel matches your frame's intended range
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Eye-to-eye and stroke dimensions match your frame (rear shock)
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Steerer tube diameter is compatible with your headset (fork)
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The axle standard matches your dropouts (fork)
If you are unsure about any of these, bring your bike in or contact us before ordering. A wrong-sized shock or incompatible fork is a frustrating and avoidable mistake.
Shop MTB Suspension at Dunbar Cycles and Corsa Cycles
We carry a full range of forks, rear shocks, and suspension components from Fox, RockShox, Ohlins, Marzocchi, and more. Free shipping across Canada on orders over $150.
Our team rides the same BC trails you do, and when your suspension needs more than a tune, we handle full in-house servicing at both our Vancouver location and Corsa Cycles in Squamish. If you have questions about what suspension is right for your bike and riding, contact us or visit the shop. We'll help you do it correctly the first time
